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News Detail

手表有哪些种类?

9
Issuing time:2020-05-28 14:06

微信图片_20200302110936.jpg




如果不是搞统计学的,那么按照手表佩戴用途分类应该比较实用 。有很多分类标准的介绍。今天在这里,就谈谈按照佩戴场合分类,因为这几年,国内的专业媒体也开始使用这个分类方法评论手表,给读者(用户)更实用更直接的指导。

按照场合分类一般分为:正装表、商务表、政务表、运动手表、乐适运动表、收藏/技趣手表和珠宝表,大约7类。


正装表:Dress watch。



中文表述比较笼统,因为国人认为西装就是正装,其实国际通行的正装概念,指的是礼服类着装(黑领结、白领结为标志,还分为晨礼服、晚礼服等)。典型的正装场合一般是各种高级庆典、音乐会(尤其是歌剧)等。钟表佩戴选项有仨:不戴表、怀表、正装手表。因为正装表是为正装场合佩戴的,所以优先考虑的是优雅、高贵。而功能、耐用、防水等不是重点考虑的。正装表都比较纤薄、优雅、简洁,多用贵金属制作,标配是皮表带和素(白)盘面。

商务表:Business watch




Business watch,顾名思义,在商务场合佩戴。国际上,商务场合的着装次于正装场合,多以深色套装为主。由于商务场合的严肃性次于正装场合,故而商务手表比正装手表更加丰富一些。商务着装也分为商务正装和商务休闲,商务手表也从偏向正装表的纤薄优雅简洁到偏向运动或多功能的运动休闲风格。

政务表:Civial Servant's watch。




低调、朴素、简洁是政务手表的突出特征。外观酷似正装表和比较偏正装的商务表。最保险的表壳材质是钢。

运动手表:Sport watch。这个不用多介绍了。




乐适运动表:Luxury sport watch。



比较豪华的运动手表。代表性作品有:爱彼的皇家橡树、百达翡丽的鹦鹉螺、劳力士Date Just以上级别的运动表。在腕表都发网站里,有专门的分类,里面可以查询检索Luxury sport watch都有哪些。

收藏技趣:Collectioneur/technophile。




很多大复杂手表、特艺手表,由于其有限的制作数量,常常是为收藏家准备的,或者是收藏家里那些专门发烧某些专项内容的。其中很多手表并不适合佩戴,不过是机械手表里已经成为现象级的工艺作品。比如像百达翡丽的5175、江诗丹顿的57250等等。很多顶级品牌功力常常表现在把几大复杂功能组合而且还能很好地控制作品的体量从而让藏家能够佩戴。比如宝珀的1735,集5大复杂功能(加上超薄就算6大复杂功能)、宝珀的中华历手表、宝格丽的超薄陀飞轮三问表等。





往期精彩回顾



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