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News Detail

精仿手表劳力士十年不变,你还会买吗

6
Issuing time:2020-03-12 10:43


日内瓦展结束后,我浏览了一下本年的新品,突然之间发现了一些好玩的工作:有一些品牌一直在坚持自我,有些“闷”;别的一些品牌却面目一新,变得让人差点认不出了。只要留心过本年的展会,你们都应该知道我在说谁。




在2010年萧邦诞辰150周年之际,掌门人Karl Scheufele就表达了对这一微妙问题的观点:“我们必须要保持敏锐的潮流触觉,尽早地认识并且跟上当下的流行趋势。抱着过去的经典不放是不行的,过去的东西,应该拿来作为创新的跳板。”




微信图片_20200302110936.jpg

需要注意的是,在现代信息化社会,手表品牌要想维持盈利,不关注或者不追随流行趋势是不可能的,因为消费者就喜欢追潮流。




再举个例子,前几年骷髅头元素流行的时候,除了昆仑、柏莱士等少数几个牌子,大部分的品牌都明智地选择了不盲目跟风。




随后,品牌换帅,新任掌门人杜福尔意识到,唯一能拯救品牌的方法就是回归初心——找回他们的DNA,重新投入经典款的怀抱。




当然,一成不变也是万万不行的。就以上文说到的劳力士为例子,在业界,劳力士是出了名的保守。但即便是这么一个保守的品牌,也会偶尔根据流行趋势对旗下产品做出调整——比如调大DJ的尺寸,为游艇增加橡胶带等等。




但是,怎么把握其中的度,又是一个很有意思的问题。在这方面,我觉得欧米茄的海马和超霸这两个系列相当值得研究:它们属于同一品牌,产品的发展路径却截然相反。海马经历过了很大的变化,超霸差不多一直维持不变,然而两者却都殊途同归,取得了非常惊人的成功。


欧米茄海马从初创到今天,外形上几乎是发生了改天换地的变动;而超霸自打登上月球以后,虽然也尝试推出过Mark II和Mark III之类的改进版,但最受欢迎的永远是原版。




为什么会出现这样的现象?其实原因也不复杂,海马虽然变化很大,但每一次的变化,都没有脱离它的核心概念——“防水”(第一款海马就是出于防水需求做的),系列的DNA一直都在。


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